Hall of Fame Cycling Tips

Fixing A Flat Tire.....(it happens)

1. Find a safe place to change your tire. Move well off the road or trail, so you won't be in the way of motorists or fellow trail riders.

2. Remove the wheel. Lay the bike on its side with the derailleur facing up. If the rear wheel is flat, shift the rear derailleur until it is on the hardest gear (on the small cog, farthest away from the tire). Remove the wheel.

3. Deflate the tire completely (if it isn't completely flat already). For a Schrader valve, remove the valve stem cover and press the center pin. For a Presta valve, remove the valve stem cover, unscrew the valve pin part way and press down.

4. Remove the tire and inner tube. Insert the spoon-like end of a tire iron between the tire bead (the reinforced edge of the tire) and the rim at a spot directly opposite the valve. Scoop the tire iron toward the tire and hook the other end around a spoke. (There is a notch in most tire irons for this purpose.) Insert a second tire iron under the tire bead a short distance from the first. Distance will vary according to the fit of the tire. If the tire is a tight-fitting road tire, the second tire iron will have to be farther away from the first than when fixing a looser fitting mountain bike tire. If the tire is still tight, hook the second iron to a spoke and insert a third iron a few inches from the second one. You should be able to slide one of the irons along the rim to loosen the entire bead. The bead on the other side of the tire does not need to be removed from the rim.

5. Remove the tube from the tire. If you are replacing the tube, carefully remove the valve from the valve hole first. If you are patching the tube, leave the valve intact.

6. Inspect the tube. Pump up the tube and locate the hole(s): Two holes, or a "snakebite," is probably from a pinched tire (generally caused by inadequate inflation). One hole on the inner circumference is usually caused by a spoke or spoke nipple puncturing the tube. Find the offending spoke and fix it (or pad it with duct tape) to protect the tube. A single hole in the outer circumference, is most likely caused by a puncture (piece of glass, staple, etc.). Look in the tire casing to make sure the cause of the puncture is not still embedded in the tire. A slit of 1/2" or more or a star-shaped hole in the tube is probably beyond repair.

7. Repair the tube. Choose a patch large enough to cover the hole. "Toughen" the area around the hole with sandpaper, making the abraded area slightly larger than the patch. Spread a thin layer of glue over the entire area the patch will contact. (The most common cause of patch failure is not covering a large enough area with glue.) Wait for the glue to dry. Its appearance will go from shiny to dull. Peel the backing off the patch and apply it over the hole. Press the patch onto the tube carefully, especially on the edges.

8. Reinstall the tire. Partially inflate the tube. (A truly flat tire is difficult to stuff into the tire without twisting it.) Insert the valve stem through the hole in the rim. Stuff the tube into the tire all the way around, then insert the tire bead into the rim at the valve stem and continue along the rim in both directions until the bead is one-half to two-thirds on the rim. Continue to insert the tire bead into the rim all the way around. As you work, you may want to deflate the tube to make it easier to work with the tire. If the process becomes difficult, do not use your tire irons, a screwdriver or any other tool to make the last bit of bead fit over the rim, the likelihood of a pinched tube is too great. Instead, work the bead onto the rim with your hands. Examine the tire bead all the way around the wheel to be sure the tube is totally inside the tire and not caught between the bead and the rim. You should not be able to see any of the tube. If the tube is caught, roll the tire between the palms of your hands to work the tube into the tire.

9. Partially inflate the tire. Inspect the bead to make sure it is engaging with the rim properly. (Don't forget to check both sides of the tire.) If there are any bulges or places where the bead dips, deflate the tire slightly and re-seat the bead as described above. Once the tire is properly seated, inflate it to the recommended pressure. Some frame pumps require a lot of strokes to get the tire full. Put as much air into the tire as you can, then top it off with a floor pump when you get home.

   Bicycle Checks for Safe Riding

   Every day you ride your bike:

   1. Wear a helmet.

   2. Be sure your wheels are installed properly. Check quick-release hubs. Make sure they are tight and that tires spin freely without wobbling from side to side.

   3. Be sure both brakes work. Squeeze both brake levers. Make sure brake pads are not badly worn and are aligned properly with rims.

   4. Make sure the tires are properly inflated. Proper inflation helps prevent flats, protects the rims and promotes efficient pedaling.

   5. Keep an eye/ear out for squeaks, clanks, rattles or creaks. Attend to problems promptly.

   6. Clean the bike after your ride, and lubricate the drive train. A clean, well-lubricated bike wears longer.

   Once a week, or monthly:

   1. Check hub and bottom bracket adjustments. Be sure they turn smoothly, but are not loose. Check hubs by grasping rim and attempting to move wheel at right angles to the centerline of the bike. Check bottom bracket by grasping the crank arms where the pedals are attached and applying pressure at right angles to the centerline of the bike. There should be no "clunking" sensation in either case.

   2. Examine each tire.

   Be sure:

   1. There are no breaks in the sidewall.

   2. The sidewall is not dried out.

   3. The tread is in good condition.

   4. The tread is free of debris that might cause a flat.

   5. The rim is true. The rim should be within 1 to 2 mm of true. Spin the wheel and make a visual check using the front or rear brake pads as a guide. An out-of-true rim will wobble.

   6. The brake pads are adjusted so that they hit the rim properly, and that the pads are not worn excessively.

   7. Teeth are not bent or worn, chain links are not bent, tight or worn and derailleur are not excessively worn.

   8. Cables inside housing are lubricated. Use heavy-duty grease specifically designed for the job, never use household oil.

   9. All accessory attachment bolts are tight. Road vibration can loosen bolts in a hurry. Check brake caliper and lever bolts, handlebar and stem attachment bolts, seat bolts, pedals, racks, lights, computers and all other attachments subject to road or trail shock often.

   10. Headset is properly adjusted. While the front brake is on, rock the bike forward and backward. There should be no "clunking" sensation. If there is, the headset is loose and should be adjusted before the bike is ridden.

   Monthly or annually:

   1. Clean and inspect the frame. Look for cracks, bulges or dents.

   2. Perform a complete tune-up or overhaul yourself or take to a bike shop.

   If you would like any additional information about cycling, or have questions about anything about cycling please call us toll free at 1-800-737-6129, any day between 8 a.m. and 9 p.m. EST.
    

   Chain Care

   To get the best performance from your bike, it is important to keep the chain and gears free of dirt, sand and road grime. A clean, well-lubricated "drive train" makes gear shifting smoother and prevents premature wear to the gears and chain. Many riders perform this quick-lube routine after each ride. You will only need a chain lubricant, described below, and an old rag.

   1. Position the bike so that the crank can be turned. (It is easiest if the chain is on the middle of the freewheel cogs.)

   2. Use a light lubricant designed specifically for lubricating bike chains. Avoid using lubricants that are applied with a spray. They make it hard to control the application of the product and are consequently messy and wasteful. Plastic containers with a drip applicator make it easier to get the lubrication exactly where you want it.

   3. Turn the cranks while holding a rag around the chain to clean off excess road grime.

   4. With one hand, place the nozzle of the lube container against the edge of the chain where it is coming over the freewheel cogs. Turn the crank clockwise slowly with your other hand. Keep your eye on the lubrication as it is pulled from the container onto the edge of the chain. Repeat this on the inner edge of the chain. Turn the cranks a few times after both edges of the chain have been lubed. This will pull the lube into the chain where it is actually needed.

   5. Repeat step 3 to remove excess lubrication from the outside of the chain that would quickly collect road grit. If you would like any additional information about cycling, or have questions about anything about cycling please call us toll free at 1-800-737-6129, any day between 8 a.m. and 9 p.m. EST.